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Jan.
19th – Monday MLK day
Depart for our journey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (NOT!)
When we went to pick up the RV
to take it home and do the final loading, an electrical fire occurred in the
battery compartment and we lost 3-4 hours of prep time. We had so many last
minute things to finish that this knocked our departure date off until the
following day.
Jan.
20th – Tuesday
We finally hit the road! Bill has spent
the last few weeks often encountering frustrating obstacles to getting his
projects done like Alex ripping a huge hole in a porch sbbbcreen after he had
finished fixing all of them. It seemed ironically fitting that Becca wound up
moving a crucial clip that goes to the car tow dolly as we were trying to
depart.
We did a lap around our cul de
sac and headed out. We had good weather and an easy drive up to Flagler
Beach
. We had a great campsite right on the ocean at Gamble
Rogers State Recreation Area .
Jan. 21st – Wednesday
We began our morning with a walk on the beach. We feel like we have the beach to
ourselves. Bike took Alex on a 10-12 mile bike ride. That afternoon we went over
to the Bulow Plantation ruins. The girls learned some history of the area and
how the plantation was burned down during the second Seminole war in 1836.
That evening we enjoyed a campfire.
Jan
22nd – Thurs.
The girls took a walk on the beach after
lunch and found a beautiful purple starfish. We spent the afternoon in
St. Augustine
doing several walking tours of
St. George Street, Flager
College
, and the Castillo San Marco. The ranger at this old, historic fort, gave each
of the kids junior ranger pins. We stayed until it was dark to enjoy the nights
of lights decorations where they decorate most of downtown and the Bridge
of
Lions
in white lights.
Jan
23rd – Friday
We left
Flagler
Beach
to travel inland. We stopped at
Ravine
Gardens
State Park and road our bikes around the ravine. We stopped at a playground
in the park and spotted both an American Lady and Wood Satyr butterflies. Laura
picked up too much speed going downhill and crashed into a fence (thank goodness
away from the ravine!). We
arrived at Paynes
Prairie
State Park
outside of Gainesville. We had a campfire. The weather was quite chilly but the heaters in the RV
work great!
Jan
24th – Saturday
We went to the Payne’s Prairie visitor
center to learn more about this unique habitat. Traveling through the park we
saw a deer and a wild turkey. Laura enjoyed spotting the cardinal that lived
near our campsite.
We went to the Gainesville
Public Library that afternoon. Bill accessed our email and the girls enjoyed the
time reading while Sandra read many, many books to Alex.
We did a classic campfire
dinner of hot dogs cooked on stick with s’mores for dessert. We’ve been
reading the Horse and His Boy by CS Lewis in the evenings.
Jan
25th – Sunday
Laura really wanted to see some Manatees
after reading about Manatee
Spring
State Park in our guide book. We decided to head over to the west coast of Florida. Our rig was
too big to stay at the state park but the ranger recommended a
county park located at Hart
Springs that had full hook ups and had just recently opened. We arrived and
found ourselves the only RV (except for the campground hosts). We picked a spot
right in the middle of the park. It’s nice to have full 50 amp hookup and a
sewer connection (fellow RVs can appreciate how nice that is – it means we can
do small loads of laundry in our washer/dryer combo unit and not worry about
running both the microwave and coffee maker at the same time). After we set up,
we biked down to the springs through a trail in the woods. Bill and Alex were in
the lead and saw a wild sow with her piglets beside the trail. The springs feed
into the
Suwannee
river and there is a nice boardwalk that takes you along the springs to the
river and through a cypress swamp. The campground hosts are very friendly and
helpful and we have free firewood for a lovely campfire. They lent us some
movies to enjoy. They also give us lots of good information about the area.
Jan.
26th – Monday
We drove to Manatee
Springs in the afternoon. Our first trip down the boardwalk along the spring
to the
Suwannee
failed to yield any manatees but our second trip down produced some. They were
in the middle of the water and therefore were a little hard to see except when they briefly
surfaced for air. In addition, we saw several different types of fish and Becca
spotted a brown water snake (non venomous) curled up near the spring. We dipped
our toes in spring which is 72 degrees. After returning, we swung by Hart
springs on the off chance there may be some manatees there also (they only come
there when it is very chilly) and then Bill and Becca walked from Hart springs
to campground and saw wild pigs again.
January
27th – Tuesday
We continue our general routine of conducting
the basic math, spelling, and writing lessons in the morning and then take our
time breaking camp before we head on up to White Springs. Our drive to the Stephen
Foster
Folk
Culture
Center
State Park
only takes a couple of hours. It is a gorgeous park – lots of live oak draped
with Spanish moss and beautiful buildings. We have a nice pull through site but
it is too cold to enjoy a campfire. We do see a gray fox later that evening when
driving through the park and read about him in our mammal field guide (and learn
that this is the only canine that can actually climb trees!).
January
28th – Wednesday
We go to the onsite Stephen
Foster museum. He was America
’s first professional composer. We learn more about him and the songs he
wrote which include – Old Folks at Home (aka Suwannee
River), Oh Susanna, Camptown Races, etc… The museum houses artifacts such as the
desk on which he wrote Suwannee
River
(after finding an appropriate name of a two syllable southern river in an
atlas) and detailed dioramas depicting 10 of his songs. We then went over to the
carillon tower which houses 97 bells that play some of Foster’s tunes during
the day. After that, we went to the
girls’ favorite place of all, the gift shop, while Bill took Alex his favorite
place, the playground.
January
29th – Thursday through February 3 - Tuesday
We get an early start on the road since we have a fairly long drive up to
North Georgia
and don’t want to get stuck in any commuter traffic around
Atlanta
. We are staying with our dear friends, Kathy and Karen Brannon, and their mom,
Jessie Smith for a couple of days. This also gives us a chance to update the website!
After this we plan to head down to the Florida Panhandle. We went to the Etowah
Indian mounds. The museum was closed but we walked the mounds despite the chill.
We also spent a couple days just relaxing, eating way too much tasty southern
home cooking, and took a picnic lunch at the top of beautiful Carter’s Dam.
February
February
3 – Tuesday
We head back south to hopefully warmer
temperatures. The RV stayed toasty inside and held up despite night time
temperatures below freezing. We stop for the night in
South Georgia
at
Reed
Bingham
State Park
. Bill stayed there once before when traveling alone with all the kids (brave
man!). They have pull through sites so we don’t have to unhitch the car. The
night gets chilly but we still cook on the campfire and make s’mores.
February
4 – Wednesday
We decide to spend a couple days at Three
Rivers
State Park. It is a pleasant park on a lake with 3 campground hosts (and only 5 other
campers). It has the cheapest firewood on our trip so far. Bill jokes that he
didn’t factor firewood and ice cream stops into the budget!
We tried and failed to make a wi-fi connection work at Flying J (the
truckers and RVs favorite fueling station) on the way. Staying connected online
has been the only annoyance of the trip so far.
February
5 - Thursday
Three Rivers is a good base to go
explore Florida Caverns and
Falling
Waters
State Parks
before going down to
St. George’s
Island
State Park. The caverns are great – they were originally developed to help make a
tourist attraction ala Luray Caverns and were one of the CCC camps created
during the great depression (We can
usually spot the CCC projects based on the stone work). We have a private tour of the
caverns (they occur every hour and we’re the only ones at that time). The
ranger makes sure we don’t bump our heads or step in any big puddles and shows
us many wonderful features including some eastern pipistrelle bats. We take lots
of pictures!!! We then drive over to Falling Waters, home of
Florida’s largest waterfall. It goes into a deep sinkhole – how else could we get
a decent sized waterfall in this pancake terrain of a state!
We end the evening with a stop at a library in Marianna.
February
6 – Friday
Bill manages to get a connection at our
campground using a phone line at the ranger station. We get a later start for
the road but we’re only going a couple hours. We pull into
St. George’s
Island
State Park
. The drive across the bridge to the island was rather tight in our big rig but
it handles well so we manage without a problem. It’s a windy, occasionally
rainy day but warm. A cold front is moving in (who keeps turning down the
thermostat on the east coast?). The park is large – it’s 4 miles from the
entrance to the campground and it covers the tip of the island bordering Apalachicola
Bay
and the
Gulf of Mexico
. We are fortunate to get a spot as they’ve been full most nights and it’s
the weekend. We plan to spend two nights here before continuing on the coast and
making our way to
Alabama. It’s very gray and rainy but we get a walk on the beach. We later take a
drive into
Apalachicola
(known for it’s oysters) and buy some fresh seafood to cook for dinner. We
also pass the Dr. John Gorrie museum. He’s the dude that invented the ice
machine! He did it to help relieve the suffering of his malaria patients and we
all benefit from his discovery.
February
7 – Saturday
Brrr! In the high 40s but the girls and
Sandra still go to the beach for the morning ranger talk about beachcombing.
St. George’s
is supposed to be good for shelling and with the stormy weather, a full moon
creating a higher than normal tide, and an approaching low tide we should get some
decent finds. Becca finds a starfish, cockle shell and clam shells while Sandra
finds a large Lighting Welk and some Olives. The day is very relaxing with
several walks inland to an eagle’s nest and again on the beach.
February
8 – Sunday
Bill and Becca make it to church (Bill
loses his bet that most services start at 11 and one little sleeping head
can’t get ready in time.) We move further west along the coast to Grayton
Beach
and drive along the “Redneck Riviera” in Panama City
– and it’s a well deserved name. Pretty dead during the winter but the
number of Daiquiri stands gives a glimpse of how it must get during spring break.
February
9 - Monday
It's a cool, gray day. We spend much of
the day doing homeschool and errands like laundry. The girls are enjoying
cooking items from their “A to Z Cookbook”. Becca made Quick Cheeseburger
Pie” last night and Laura made “Pizza Pockets” today. We take a nice walk
on Grayton
Beach
(Rated America’s Best
Beach
by “Dr. Beach” in 1994.). The sand is as soft and fine as confectionary
sugar. In the early evening we take a spin through the nearby towns including
Seaside (featured in the film "The Truman Show") which has funky yet
attractive architecture and even has cool street lights.
February
10 - Tuesday
We pull into Gulf
Shores
State Park
in
Alabama
where,
although we knew it would be long shot based on calling ahead, we’re hoping
we might get lucky and get a site for the night. But for the first time, we
don’t get our first choice of parks. We spend the night in a private RV
Park,
Island Retreat, which the girls liked because it had cable and we like because
of the full hook ups and pull through. For
dinner we drive to
Mobile
and
hit the Brick Pit, the first place of the trip that has been recommended in the
book, “Road Food.” We also
drive by other recommended locations, the Dew Drop Inn (which allegedly
inspired
Mobile
native
and now Palm
Beach
resident
Jimmy Buffet to write Cheeseburger in Paradise
)
and Wintzell’s
Oyster House, Mobile’s
oldest restaurant.
February
11 – Wednesday
Number 3 on the waitlist turns out to be our lucky number and we get a lakefront
site at Gulf
Shores
State Park.
We do bit of the usual stuff –
home school work, internet access, restocking the pantry before changing
locations. Later that afternoon we drive down to Ft.
Morgan,
one of the two forts built to protect the entrance to
Bay.
Despite the cool, rainy weather, the girls have a blast. They like the
relatively unfettered access to all sorts of areas in the fort. We buy them a
very informative coloring book about Historic North American Forts in the
Museum Gift shop. The girls also add to their civil war knowledge as this fort
was involved in the Battle of Mobile Bay. This battle was the origin of the
phrase “Damn the torpedoes and full speed ahead!” uttered by Admiral
Farragut to encourage his ships to ignore the mines (called torpedoes back
then) lining Mobile Bay after one sunk the USS Temcumsa.
February
12 – Thursday
More rain…a front is stalled overhead. Late
morning finds us headed to Pensacola
to
visit the Naval
Aviation
Museum.
We plan to go to Hopkins Boarding House for lunch and the girls are looking
forward to their famous fried chicken but we get skunked. The restaurant is
closed for renovation! While we’re in the parking lot, at least three other
cars pull in and are disappointed too. We head back to a restaurant we pass –
Chet’s – that seemed to have the hallmarks of a typically road food find
–an unassuming exterior mobbed with cars and people waiting outside to get
in. We go in and enjoy watching the hostess who seems to greet practically everyone by name.
She immediately brings crackers to the table for the kids after seating us.
(The fact that Alex was staring through the doors for the most of the time we
were waiting must have clued her in that this kid wanted to eat!). The
oysters were very tasty and the prices low. We make a quick stop at Joe
Patti’s seafood and buy some fresh scallops before heading over to the
museum. Since it is on the Navy
grounds, security is heightened and we have to detour from one entrance to
another and answer ‘no’ to questions like “Do you have an weapons,
explosives, or knives on you?” and show a driver’s license. Bill asks
"Do unruly kids count?", but that’s not on the banned list.
The museum covers all facets of naval aviation and
the girls enjoy the displays. They can climb into the cockpits of some the
planes and learn about different styles of aircraft, air craft carriers, and
wars – though mostly World War II. Admission is free and the displays are
beautifully done. We also watch the IMAX film, the Mystery of Flight, and they
have more information to add to their timeline as well as an interest to see the
Blue Angles live at an air show. We get home for an early evening.
February
13 – Freaky Friday
What a jam packed day! It doesn’t start out too
well – no mail as hoped for at the post office and we miss the ferry we wanted
to take across Mobile
Bay
by
minutes (along with about 4 other cars!). So we decide to salvage our trip into
to Mobile
by
hitting some "RV Trips for Dummies" (by some Frommer's contributors)
market highlights. Our first stop is the “Sweet Home Farm” where the
proprietor has been making natural cheeses (no preservatives or coloring) for
20 years. He lets us sample some delicious cheeses and we buy some Elberta (the
house cheese named after the farm's location), Bleu, and Bama Jack. Yummy! We
then cruise over to the Burris Farm Market in Loxely where we dig into huge
portions of Strawberry Shortcake and Laura gets a fresh apple dumpling. We
finally head out for Mobile
by
interstate and the science museum. Bill drops the family off and then heads out
to Bunkley's, a huge RV parts store, to find some replacement parts for the RV.
With three kids, usage, and rumbling
down roads, things will break with relative frequency and the right match
isn’t always easy to get.
Upon
entering the museum, the fire alarm went off so the kids and
Sandra wind up on the street. Not having their coats (those are in the car with
Bill), they head out to find a warm spot until they can go back in and they come
across Bienville Book Store. This turns out to be a fortunate episode because
Sandra finds information about Mobile
’s
Mardi Gras parades. (These allegedly precede New
Orleans' parades,
probably from when Mobile was the capital of the French territories but that
whole claim seems unfounded). They head
back to the museum and the kids have a blast with all the hands on exhibits
Alex in particular delights in the water area. Becca likes building circuits.
Laura works with a boy she met to create their own computer fish and ocean
environment. Other areas the girls really enjoy include a lab for
chemistry experiments and a place to build and ride your own virtual roller
coaster (like at Disney Quest).
After the museum, we dine at Wintzell’s Oyster
House for an early dinner where the girls like reading all the funny sayings by
the late owner that are tacked up all over the walls. Examples include “A
theory is a hunch with a college education.” We then head down to the parade
route and easily find front row positions. All the kids love the Mardi Gras
Parade put on by the Order of the Incas. The floats are done in a Friday the 13th
horror film motif - the theme is a Nightmare to Remember - and the riders toss
beads, moon pies, and even stuffed animals! Alex tells Bill “Daddy, I got a
toy and I got a necklace!” Becca
and Laura have heaps of beads and the kids have two stuffed animals each.
On the way home, we stumble across yet another Mardi Gras parade in the
town of
Fairhope.
We quickly pop into a parking spot and easily get right up front. It’s a much
smaller parade hosted by Apollo's Mystic Ladies and it has
less of the traditional brass bands (more local rock bands towed on trailers)
but it’s still fun and the kids get even more beads and moon pies. Alex earns
yet another new nickname, "Moon Pie Man," since he likes to gobble up
moon pies and seems to enjoy the banana even more than the chocolate. The two
youngest children fell asleep during the remaining drive back to the RV.
February
14 – Saturday, Valentines Day
Bill treats Sandra to breakfast in bed. J
It’s still gray outside. We knew we’d get poor weather at times but for
residents of the Sunshine state, we’re hoping for some sun soon! We debate if
we’d prefer cold and clear to warmer and gray since those seem to be the only
choices. Most of the morning is spent with errands, picking up the mail,
groceries, and laundry, and the girls enjoy reading books – Becca reads the
story of Helen Keller and Laura reads a fictional New England Girl's Journal of
1830-1831.
In the afternoon we go over to the small nature center at the park. It turns out
to be a gem. There are tanks full of native live species of turtles, snakes,
baby gators, a possum, and a skink. After the girls are there a bit (Alex is
napping), the ranger takes the possum, Marlu, that they raise from a baby out
and lets them pet her. Becca is fascinated by how the tail can hold her finger.
She then lets them feed the turtles. She
also takes a large Black Pine snake, Houdini, out of her cage. Finally, the
ranger hands us some fun papers on animal tracks and sea turtle activity sheet.
Bill struggles to get on line at the campground but there appears to be a
problem with the phone lines. We are finally successful at the resort hotel also
run by the state park.
February
15 – Sunday
This time the whole family makes it to a contemporary service at Gulf Shores
Methodist church. We then return to pack up the RV and head to
New Orleans
but
we encounter a problem. The front jacks which help keep the RV stable when we
camp, will not retract. Since these large metal posts touch the ground, it is
impossible to leave the site to work on the problem and let an incoming camper
in. Bill does a wonderful job of troubleshooting the problem and creatively
moves a switch from the functioning rear jacks to the stubborn front ones.
Voila! Success and we are off without hours of hassle or the expense of an
onsite RV mechanic! We drive to our new location at
Fontainebleau
State Park
in
Louisiana.
It is across
Lake Pontchartrain
from
New Orleans.
We set up camp and then go to Middendorf’s, a renown catfish restaurant, for
a late dinner.
February
16 – Monday (President’s Day)
Bill’s uncle and his family live in Carriere,
MS,
only 30 minutes from the state park. We call Uncle David to arrange a time to
meet and learn that Aunt Wilma has the day off from work for President’s Day.
The girls mutiny about doing any more schoolwork today since it is not a
“school day”. We drive over to visit Uncle David and Aunt Wilma and have a
lunch worthy of an entry in the Roadfood book at Dockside Seafood. After lunch,
Bill’s cousin Kathy and her family came over to visit.
Much to the joy of the girls, Kathy’s two daughters are 14 and 12
years old – just the ages the girls adore. We spend most of the day there
before returning to our RV. Wilma sent us off with a bag of delicious homemade
praline’s using pecans from her parent’s home. Alex missed his nap and is
so worn out that he falls asleep on the ride home and doesn’t wake up until
the next morning.
February
17 – Tuesday
We do some home schooling as well as take a bike
ride around the park. Shortly before
noon,
we head into the Big Easy, the Crescent
City,
Nor’leans. Our route from the campground takes us over the world’s longest
bridge over water – 26 miles. Sandra gets reoriented to a city she hasn’t
seen in almost 25 years when she took a trip there with her dad and best
friend, Cathy. We drive past the Superdome and down Canal
street
then cruise
onto
Decatur
into
the French Quarter. After a quick buzz through, we go to the Bon Ton Café for
lunch. We’re a tad underdressed but enjoy our meal and the kids display top
notch behavior. After we head back to the French Quarter to look at the
architecture and mardi gras decorations. We park right across from the Café Du
Monde and enjoy some of their famous beignets. These ‘French donuts” are
like mini fried dough you get at a fair but the dough is slightly heavier and
they come covered with a pile of powdered sugar. We stroll around
Jackson
Square, looking
at the art for sale and listening to street musicians. Afterward, we enjoy
watching a street performance by very funny and athletic troupe from NYC.
We decide not to stay for any parades and head back to across the lake.
We stop at Krummel’s Bakery in Mandeville and purchase a “king cake”.
This Mardi Gras sweet tastes similar to a coffee cake or breakfast Danish. It originally was
a plain cake with a dusting of sugar. Today they are typically frosted
and come with a variety of fillings.
February
18 – Wednesday
We spend more time on school work and then decide
to head back to
New Orleans.
The girls want to go to the Aquarium and we want to find the National Park we
passed yesterday in the French Quarter that may give some history of the
pirate, Jean Lafite. We drive all over the French Quarter but somehow can’t
locate it again. Even a stop at the tourism center doesn’t help! All is not
in vain because we at least get some muffelatta sandwiches from the Central
Grocery before going to the aquarium. We enjoy looking at their exhibits which
include penguins, river otters, frogs, and natives from the bayous of
Louisiana.
After another round of beignets (Alex slept through it yesterday), we decided
to attend a ‘real’ New Orleans Mardi Gras parade. We stayed along Canal
Street. Although
we heard horror stories of rowdy behavior and problems with crime, we scoped
out the situation and feel that we should be OK. One of the reasons for our
trip is to experience events like this and although we didn’t plan to be here
around Mardi Gras our motto is “carpe diem!” There is a substantial police
presence, the crowd around us seems pleasant, and we are not near the more
popular and rowdy parts (aka St. Charles St) of the route. The only problem is,
no one can tell us which side of the street the parade will go down! There are
two parades tonight and they take slightly different routes down Canal to boot.
We wind up with a much longer wait than we expected and move three times (as
the barricades shift) until we get a spot for the first parade by the Saturn
krewe. A real nice lady hands each girl a necklace while we wait for the parade
and we talk to the fellow tourists around us. We enjoy the floats and the girls
get more beads, some doubloons and toys. Part way though, Alex fell asleep and
was so tired that he snoozed through the marching bands. We don’t have to
wait too long before the next parade but do manage to get on the same side of
our street that the car is located on. The second parade by the Muses is even
nicer and includes the Shriners, one of whom stops his motorcycle and hands
Laura two roses. We mention how we love the Shriners and how Laura is a patient
at the Tampa
Shriners
Hospital
to
a fellow by-stander who turns out to be a Shriner too! Many of the people
standing next to us give extra beads to the girls. Mom catches a soft soccer
and football for Alex – happy boy! The parades finally end and we have no
problems with traffic heading home. All the children fall asleep on the way.
The history around Mardi Gras and the krewes are interesting and we’ll try to
locate a good website to include (recommendations welcome!).
February
19 – Thursday
We leave Fontainebleu and head up to Natchez
,
MS. We
make a stop at Port Hudson – the last Confederate stronghold along the
Mississippi.
Bill’s Uncle David had mentioned the research that Bill’s mom had done
showed how some ancestors of Bill’s had come here with their regiment from
Connecticut to fight against the Confederates entrenched there. On the way
there, we had accidentally turned into the Port
Hudson
National
Cemetery
and
we wind up having to take the car off in order to back up and turn around. This
cost us some time and we didn’t reach the state park in Natchez
before
5 p.m.
so
we ended up in a private campground in Natchez
for
the night. We take a drive into historic Natchez
to
look at the antebellum homes and get take out food from Cock o' the Walk restaurant
including “fried
pickles” before turning in for the night.
February
20 – Friday
It takes most of the day to drive from
Natchez
,
MS
to
Murfreesboro,
AR
since
we have to take a combination of highways and two lane roads to get from one
point to another. We do enjoy a brief ride up part of the historic
Natchez
Trace Parkway. Along the
way we stop in Monroe,
LA
in
our quest to find a dealer to replace our front tires. One is wearing badly and
we need to have an alignment. However, Freightliner dealers who do the
alignments don’t sell tires and most Michelin tire dealers don’t carry the
special heavy duty RV tire that we need. After some phone calls, we find both
in Little
Rock
and plan to go there
Monday.
February
21 - Saturday
We are camped at Crater
of Diamonds State Park. Laura, usually the last one up, is awake early and
ready to spend the day looking for diamonds. We searched among 38 acres of
plowed area, walking up and down the rows in search of a metallic glint the size
of a match head. The odds are very low that we will actually find any. Later
that morning we attend a talk by the
park ranger about the other types of interesting stones we might find and watch
the video about the park’s history and three main ways to locate diamonds -
looking at the surface, dry screening some dirt, or rinsing the gravely dirt. After
lunch we decide to rent the screen, bucket, and shovel so the kids can get even
muddier than they already are. No diamonds but the weather is lovely and we have
a good time. We get a great winter rate on the site and the firewood is the best
bargain yet - $2 for a large bundle. We enjoy a large campfire that night. (Yes,
including the obligatory s’mores once the coals are just right!)
February
22 – Sunday
We spend another day of schlepping through the
diamond field and enjoying beautiful weather. Some guys that Sandra talked to a
little bit yesterday who had been coming here for years were the only ones who
had found a diamond that day – an 11 point one (about 1/10th carat).
The three of them had worked very hard all day going through many 5 gallon
buckets of dirt. They didn’t have any luck today but bring some of the gravel
home to go through more carefully. The girls do better getting ‘finds’ at
the gift shop!
February 23 – Monday
We make the short trip over to
Degray
State Park.
We planned to use that location as a base to go to
Little
Rock
and deal with the
tires. But when Sandra called to confirm that Looney’s Tires still have the
tires in stock, she discovered that they had been sold on Saturday. Another
lesson learned of life on the road – see if you can pay for it over the phone
when something is that hard to find! Degray turns out to be a beautiful park.
The park has a lodge resort which has been renovated in the last couple of
years and the campground is nearly empty. Our lakefront site is one of the most
beautiful we’ve had yet. We take
a drive into Hot Springs
to
do some banking and see if we can spot a Volvo dealer because now a warning
light is flashing on the dash of the car. We suspected that Alex may have
pushed a button when he was climbing around in the front. It turns out that the
only Volvo dealer in
Arkansas
is
in
Little Rock
but
the light goes off after Bill fills the car with gas. It wasn’t looking very
pretty to have both of our transportation methods needing work at the same
time.
February
24 – Fat Tuesday
The home school time gets occasionally interrupted
by bird sightings. There are lots of blue jays, cardinals, red bellied
woodpeckers, tufted titmouse birds, and a beautiful blue bird (we think may have
been an indigo bunting) flitting around the camp ground area. Most of our
neighbors already left earlier that morning (except the guy in the tent next to
us with the massively bright lights he has set up and leaves on all night –
thank goodness our night shades do a decent job keeping out the light. We have
dubbed this odd neighbor "Halogen Man."). Late
that afternoon we go to
Hot
Springs
to
visit the National Park. We tour the Fordyce Bathhouse which was built in the
1920s. It offers an interesting look into the whole spa culture which lasted
from the mid 1800’s until shortly after WWII. The girls and Sandra then
decide to go to the Hot Springs Spa to ‘take the waters’. Bill graciously
takes care of Alex who, being less than 3 and not fully potty trained, can’t
go. The girls really enjoy the warm waters in the large bathing pool and also
have a good time exploring the various hot tubs and saunas. We enjoyed a tasty
dinner at Mickey’s BBQ in
Hot
Springs
(sadly
the namesake died last year but his family still runs it). The Roadfood book scores with this one! Another wildlife highlight for the day
is spotting a skunk crossing the road as we drive toward our campsite.
February
25 – Wednesday
The day is cold and rainy which makes a perfect day to focus more on school work
and errands. Bill, Alex, and Becca all go to get haircuts. Becca goes first, no
problem. Bill goes next, no problem. Alex, who is woken up from a nap, goes
last, big problem. He gets so upset by being held on mommy’s lap for the
‘tickle bug’ (electric hair trimmer), that we have to stop the proceedings
and try to get him to settle down. He finally does settle down enough to have a
half way decent hair cut. The stylist was very patient and tried
very hard to work with Alex. Fortunately he calmed down before another little boy
came in also needing a haircut… the stylist's shoulders’ did visibly slump when faced with
another potential tantrum situation! Bill paid one of the largest haircut tips
of his life and Sandra is grateful that she actually did pack the “Wahl home
haircutting kit and video!” Since the haircuts took longer than expected, we
go to McClard’s BBQ for dinner. This
spicy BBQ was often served when President Bill Clinton was in office. Lots of
letters and pictures from him and the likes of the airforce one crew line the
walls. Menus include the story
behind the sauce.
February
26 – Thursday
Naturally, since we’re pulling out of this lake
front site, today dawned bright and blue! Sandra has come down with a cold so
Bill does most of the driving. We head down to our planned stop which is about a
third of the way between Texarkana
and
Houston.
We are driving down 59 and think that should be the theme route number of
our
trip…In Alabama, we took 59 to go from Gulf
Shores
to
Mobile.
In Louisiana
we
used 59 off 12 to get to Fountainbleu and we also used 59 in Mississippi
to
go from 10 to Bill’s uncle’s house. We seem to keep taking 59 in every
state we go!
Texas
has
one of the better state visitor guides and the entry for the town of Jefferson
intrigued us enough for a stop. We went to the historic Carnegie library first.
The librarian was very friendly and has done some extensive RV travels also.
Laura read a book about the history of
Texas
while
Becca enjoyed some
Texas
ghost
stories. We also toured the local historical society museum which is housed in
the former post office/court house. We went into an old fashioned styled
general store and then bought some slices of pie, including buttermilk, at the
restaurant next door and then headed out again. We planned to stop at
Creek
State
campground
but when we went on the road that should have lead to it, the sign to the
campground must have been missing. Rather than turn around, we decided to
continue. We didn’t see any commercial campgrounds that appealed to us so we
kept going until we reached Lake Livingston State Campground and stopped for
the night.
February
27 – Friday
Since the remainder of our drive is short today, we
take our time breaking camp and Bill does laundry. It takes about 2 hours to
reach the McKethen’s home. We receive an amazing welcome. (How many people
would tear down their car port so that you can get into their driveway!!!)
The kids are so excited to have other kids to play with again!
February
28 – Saturday
Yeehaw! The Houston
rodeo
is here! Everyone heads over to downtown
to
watch the rodeo parade. It is the most horses we’ve ever seen in one place.
It’s fun to watch the different groups, riders, costumes, and wagons. Some of
the riders have their horses do fancy steps for the crowd (one rider even gets
down and does a few of his own). The street sweepers come through
periodically to clean up after the horses – particularly before the marching
bands come through! It is one of the longest parades we’ve been to and we
enjoy it very much.
February
29 – Sunday (Leap Day)
We went to church with the McKethen family. Active
Alex paid a visit to the nursery for much of the service. Much of the rest of
the day was spent having a lovely time
of general rest and relaxation.
March
March
1 – Monday
Bill successfully achieved getting both new front
tires and an alignment. On Saturday he located a nearby tire shop that had the
tires we needed at their local warehouse. They came in and he had them installed
before
noon.
Then he spent the remainder of the day at the Freightliner service center to
get the alignment done. We hope it lasts well! These
big tires are pricey. We also are treated to ‘date night’ as James and Maya
watch the kids.
March
2 – Tuesday
We went with
Maya and Lian to the NASA,
Johnson
Space
Center
in Houston.
On the tram tour, Sandra’s thrill was seeing the historic mission
control room that was used until 1995 to support space flights from the
Apollo missions through Shuttle launches. Here’s
Becca’s write up about the field trip: “It was really fun. A lady let us go
on a ride. And the ride was really fun. We ate lunch and then went to a play
place. Lunch was good but playing was even better. We even got to touch a
moon rock! Me and Lian [Lian and I] got to go in a rocket ship. I wanted to go
on a ride but you had to pay. In the play place you could shoot balls down at
people. In 1969 the first man went on the moon.” The center has many historic
artifacts as well as a lot of high tech, interactive displays and rides. Maya
was the audience volunteer who demonstrated what life is like in the space
station.
March
3 – Wednesday
Spent the day doing home school and errands. One
of the small things you notice on road trips is how different areas of the
country call some items by slightly different names. In most of the east coast,
you would do laundry at a Laundromat, around the gulf coast, the common name is
Washateria. We wonder what names we’ll encounter in other parts of the country
but no matter what you call it, Bill proves that he is the laundry king yet
again today.
March
4 – Thursday
We went to the Houston
Livestock Show with Maya and Lian. The kids enjoyed looking at all the
different animals brought in for the show competitions. There were beef and milk
cattle, llamas and alpacas, rabbits, swine, and more. There were no chickens
this year due to the avian flu virus outbreak and the usual buyers from
Mexico
of
cattle would not be making purchases because of the ban on US beef due to the
mad cow disease quarantine. Becca
and Lian enjoyed a pony ride. All the kids enjoyed the petting zoo which had a
deer and some wallabies in addition to the usual goats, sheep, and donkeys. We
enjoyed laughs at the pig races. Later that afternoon we enjoyed a visit to the
Houston Museum of Natural Science. We
love how our annual family membership to our local science museum gives us
access to many other great museums. There
we toured the Cockerell
Butterfly
Center
which
has a wonderful tropical area full of live butterflies mostly from Central and South America
with
a few from
Asia
.
Butterflies that were especially beautiful included the blue
morpho and rice paper
butterflies. We rejoined Maya and her kids and she treated us all to dinner at
Luby’s. That night, to keep with
our NASA trip of earlier in the week, we watched the movie October Sky.
March
5 – Friday
We spent the morning getting ready to drive over to San Antonio. We’ll be
spending a couple nights at Fiesta Alamo
RV resort and plan to attend the
Alamo
activities
scheduled this weekend in honor of the historic battle.
March
6 - Saturday
There is finally a full, beautiful day of blue skies and sunshine after a week
of gray skies and rain. We join up with Maya and the kids in front of the
Alamo. Today is the anniversary of the
battle of the Alamo which occurred March 6, 1836. We watch the San Antonio
Living History organization do a 3 part re-enactment
of the historic battle. The first part introduced the key defenders, such as
Travis, Bowie, and Crockett, and the last evening of their 13 day defense.
The second part focused on the women who were among the few survivors. The final
scene was the climactic battle where the large number of Mexican forces from
Santa Ana's army overwhelmed the defenders shortly before dawn. The volunteers
did a great job and the scenes included cannon and musket fire.
After the Alamo we went over
to the nearby River Walk area were we stopped for lunch. We strolled around the
riverfront for awhile after. It is a lovely area and it gives San Antonio the
more intimate feel of a small city instead of the 9th largest in the nation. In
front of the Hilton, Sandra noticed a secret service man and overheard another
walker mention to her daughter that he was there to protect one of the
presidential candidates who was in the hotel. Sandra asked her which one and she
said "John Kerry". We continued to walk and enjoy the stroll along the
river. Finding wheelchair ramps to cross over the river was a bit challenging
but eventually we made our way around most of it. At the end, we found ourselves
in front of the Hilton again just as Senator Kerry's motorcade was pulling up.
We waited and the media contingent came out and went down the nearby steps to
set up for their photos or to head into the hotel. Then Senator Kerry came out
and greeted the by-standers. He stopped to talk
to our group and Becca asked "What's your name?" "John
Kerry" he replied and said "You have beautiful blue eyes!" He
then graciously posed for a group picture (boy that digital camera can be so
slow to set up for the next shot!!!). Now Becca wants Mom to vote for him!
Bill says only if he names Becca as his Vice President, then he will!
After that bit of excitement,
we returned to the Alamo to tour the Shrine and Long Barrack areas. Maya capped
off our wonderful day with treats of ice cream.
March 7 - Sunday
The weather was beautiful for another straight day. We decided to hang out. We
gave the RV and car a good wash. The RV
roof takes some time. Later in the afternoon, we drove through nearby Boerne
(pronounced Burn-e) and over to the Guadalupe
River State Park. There the girls enjoyed wading in the water and all the
kids had fun at a playground.
March 8 - Monday
Bill had noticed that the tow dolly's tires were wearing a bit and it had a
shimmy so he took it to a nearby shop after we checked out of the RV park. Turns
out it was a good thing because the cotter pin was broken and the wheel could
have fallen off! While it's being repaired, we went back to San Antonio for the
afternoon. We had lunch at El Mercado. We then tried to go over to the Institute
for Texas Cultures but unfortunately it is closed on Mondays so we headed over
to the Witte Science Museum. There we went through a special exhibit on bones
and then a display on the animals of Texas. We review the rhyme about
identifying highly venomous coral snakes vs. the similarly colored but harmless
king snake - "red touch yellow, kill a fellow, red touch black, venom
lack" - and hope we never need to use it! We then drive to Pedernales Falls
State Park outside of Johnson City (west of Austin) and arrive just after the
sun sets. A nice couple that has been full timing for 3 years helps us select a
good site and navigate into the back-in site by flashlight.
March 9 - Tuesday
The girls do most of their school work outside. Bill took Alex on a bike ride
around the park (including up 'cardiac hill' to register at the park office) to
view the falls and then the wading area further downstream. Signs warn about the
dangers of flash floods and the flood markers we drove by on the road leading to
the park mean we'll be keeping an eye on the weather and water level. In the
afternoon, we drove to the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. We enjoyed
walking through the center, gardens, and a bit of the trails. Now that the
flowers are emerging and it is sunny and warm, the butterflies have become more
active. We then went to Austin for an early dinner at Hut's Hamburgers.
Afterward, we enjoyed a short walk along Town Lake down to the Congress Avenue
bridge so we could watch the world's largest urban bat colony emerge shortly
before sun set.
March 10 - Wednesday
Becca goes on an early morning hike with Bill down to the river and swimming
area. While the girls do some school work, Sandra takes Alex on a short hike to
Twin Falls. There are jack rabbits, scrub jays, and road runners all around our
campsite. In the afternoon we went down to the river to play in the water. Laura
rode in the backpack on Bill's back, and Alex on Sandra's shoulders while Becca
carried herself! Late that afternoon we headed to Lockhart and stopped on the
way at the Wimberly Pie Company where we lived out the motto of 'life is short,
eat dessert first." From there we drove through San Marcos to Lockhart, the
"Buckle of the Barbeque Belt of Texas". There are three places in this
small town known for its BBQ and we decide to try Black's which has been run by
the same family since its founding in 1932. It's BB Q is flavorful but not
worth traveling so far out of the way. On the way back, Sandra
decided to try to stop at the Blanco Bowling Club Cafe. This funky place is a
cafe in front and a small bowling alley in the rear. The Roadfood book raved
about its meringue pies and while it was nearly 8 p.m. and the restaurant was
still open (lots of places close at 6 or 8 out in the Texas hill country) they
had sold out of pies. We stopped at the Hill Country Cupboard in Johnson City
(near the junction to the road to the state park). This restaurant proclaims to
have the World's Best Chicken Fried Steak but we just got a few slices of pie to
go and can't verify that claim! We played a few spelling games on the remainder
of the drive (e.g. A-r-e w-e s-t-u-f-f-i-n-g o-u-r f-a-c-e-s a-c-r-o-s-s
T-e-x-a-s?), enjoyed gazing at the clear night sky, and spotted a jackrabbit along the road.
March 11- Thursday
Bill took Alex on a 5 mile hike through the park. For lunch, we drove up to
Marble Falls and had lunch at the Blue Bonnet Cafe. This place was road food
heaven -
tasty country cooking and awesome pies. We then took a drive through other hill
county towns such as Llano on our way to Fredericksburg. En route, we saw some
roadside blue bonnets (it's still to early in the season for the famous fields
of blue bonnets that blanket the countryside) and a nest with bald eagles on the side of the road. We stopped
at the Wildflower Seed farm, a large producer of seeds. They have a beautiful
gift shop area, many friendly cats roaming around, and a soon to open butterfly
house. When we returned to the campground, Becca and Sandra took a hike down to
Pedernales Falls (trying to walk off some of that pie!). We spent a relaxing
evening together and worked on the website (including Laurabug.com).
There are no
data jacks on the pay phone at the park so email and website updates must
wait.
March 12 - Friday
We took back roads from Johnson City to New Braunfels (where yes, we stopped for
lunch at the New Braunfels Smoke House) and then down to Mathis where the Lake
Corpus Christi State Park is located. We plan to stop hear and then head closer
to the city of Corpus Christi tomorrow and plan to stay for 5 days. With many
schools on spring break this week, we should be able to get into a 'first come,
first served' county park - especially if its one that's not located in the desirable beach areas. We
pulled in by early afternoon and took a walk around the park. Many of the spring
wildflowers are out as well as butterflies. Still no data jacks!
March 13 - Saturday
We head out with plans to stay at one Nueces county park west of town but when
we drive out there it seems too far out of town and too small and we decide to
head into town. We then get one of the last spots at the county park on Padre
Island outside of Corpus Christi. The sites are basically a paved parking lot and
close together (as Bill says, he's never been close enough to see the salt
crystals on the table in his neighbors RV before!) but they are also inexpensive
and right on the ocean. The day is cool and gray so after we set up we drove
down into Corpus Christi. We went to a huge playground along the bay. After
that, we decide to take the long way back over the ferry at Aransas Pass. During
the five minute boat ride, we get treated to seeing 3 dolphins frolicking in the
water. They seem to enjoy leaping in the wake of the boats and even flip their
tails.
March 14 - Sunday
We attended church at Island in the Son United Methodist. The pastor, Steve
Clinton, turns out to be from Juno Beach United Methodist (one of the churches
that combined to form our home church, Oceanview UMC) and had just returned from
Lake Park, FL where he was visiting his sons! Such a small world!
Afterward, we go to the beach. Becca takes a jellyfish tally while walking on
the beach (12 moon jellies, 4 man of war). It's a good thing we went to the
beach before lunch because after, it began to rain, rain, and rain some more. We
decided to drive back to the 'main land', go to the library and run some
errands. The girls enjoy diving into some books while Alex naps and Bill and
Sandra take turns reading email. After the library, the neon "Fresh Hot
Now" sign (any fellow junk food addicts will know what that means!) caused
us to miss some stores that closed by 5. It's a perfect movie night, so we make
our first Blockbuster run of the trip and the kids enjoy Jungle Book 2. Then we
fall asleep to the sounds of the waves, wind, and rain.
March 15 - Monday
We spend the morning getting ready for Sandra and Laura to fly to
Tampa. Laura needs to go to her scheduled check up at the Shriners' Hospital.
She has Perthes disease and they want to see how her hip is progressing. We make
time to stop at the Birding Center at Port Aransas where we hope to see the rare
Whooping Crane. They winter here and there are only about 50 of them left! We
think we spot the large white cranes near some roseate spoonbills but aren't
really sure. We take the ferry again but no dolphins this time! Sandra and
Laura get to the airport early. Laura's crutch that lost it's tip in the mud at
Crater of Diamonds makes for an interesting stop at the security check point but
the staff is very friendly and the 'girls' get through without any body searches.
One even gave Laura some Jolly Ranchers after getting the OK from mom. They arrive at Tampa shortly before midnight.
March 16 - Tuesday
Laura met with the nurse practitioner and physical therapist and has x-rays. Her
status is about the same - a little more degradation of the bone which was
expected, but her hip is still contained in the socket and her range of motion
reasonable. She gets her new crutches adjusted correctly. Sandra and Laura enjoy
the rest of the day chilling in the hotel, going to the Tampa Museum of Science
and Industry and watching an IMAX double feature of Australia and Lewis and
Clark. Bill, Becca, and Alex went to Aransas National Wildlife Refuge which is
35 miles north of Aransas Pass where they see an actual pair of Whooping Cranes.
Becca writes "We got to watch movies and stay up late while mommy was gone.
We watched Peter Pan, Alladin, and Lady and the Tramp. We saw animals and wild
life center too! My list of animals: javelina, frog, alagator, whooping crane,
heron, fish, duck, butterflies, vulture."
March 17 - Wednesday (St.
Patrick's Day)
Laura and Sandra flew from Tampa to Corpus Christi. Bill, Becca, and Alex went
to the museum which had replicas of Christopher Columbus's ships that were built
by Spain in honor of the 500th anniversary of his voyage. We all spent the
evening relaxing together back at the RV.
March 18 - Thursday
We broke camp and headed down to Mission, Texas. On the way, we said 'thanks' to Lady Bird
Johnson as we enjoyed the bursting wildflower blooms lining the side of the
road. The Bentsen-Rio Grande State Park no longer offers RV
camping but there are several parks on the road near the park. We found a very
nice place, the Bentsen Palm Village
RV Park. The park is new and the roomy sites are planted with native plants
that attract birds and butterflies. Plus we have free wi-fi! The girls and
Bill drive to the NABA
International Butterfly Park which is just down the road.
March 19 - Friday
Most of this day was spent by the girls catching up on lots of school work. In
the morning, Bill and the girls made a brief trip to the butterfly park. Laura
writes "When we went to the NABA Butterfly Park we saw a Tawny Emperor and
a Fatal Metalmark. We also saw South Western Lantana and Hackberry [plants]. The
Fatal Metalmark was on sage and the Tawny Emperor was on a butterfly feeder. Now
the park is small, but later it will be huge! They are going to plant more
trees. It was actually a field before they bought it!" After that, Bill
made appointments at Camping World for the RV to get an oil change and lube and
at the Volvo dealer for the car. He also took Alex on a bike ride down to
Bentsen-Rio Grand State Park and saw lots of birds, butterflies, and border
patrol agents!
March 20 - Saturday
In the morning, Bill took the car in for servicing and the girls wrote short
stories. We made another visit to the butterfly park and then drove around the
Mission/McAllen area and went to a mall. We had thought about going into Mexico
but want to check out the details about car insurance coverage. Later that
afternoon we hung out around the RV, the girls played Legos in the pavillion,
Bill washed one side of the RV while Alex played ball outside. Sandra made
dinner and watched TLC shows like "While You Were Out" and
"Trading Spaces" and is cooking up home improvement projects once the
family returns to Florida. In the evening, we played Scrabble.
March 21- Sunday
We went to church at the First United Methodist Church in Mission. It was a recently added contemporary service and is held in their small chapel. The
sermon title was "The Hissing Sin" (who wants to guess what that is?).
On the way out, Pastor Charlie Baskin asked Becca "What's your name?"
"Rebecca" she answered. "That's a name in the Bible" Pastor
Baskin replied. "I know" said Becca "We have the book." The
pastor got a chuckle out of her response and related this story to Sandra adding
"I may have to use that!"
In the afternoon, we headed southeast to Progresso, TX. We decided to go to
Mexico by crossing over the pedestrian bridge there. It turned out to be the
23rd annual "Tourist Appreciation Day." Adults pay a quarter to cross
the bridge and there is no customs to go through to speak of in Mexico. Heading
over the bridge, there were people standing below at the base of the river that
held upside down plastic bleach jugs attached to sticks. They used these to
gather change that they begged from the crowds. Another thing we noticed was
the incredible number of dental offices. The low prices ($10 cleanings, etc.) must draw many people
over the border. The town of Nuevo Progresso was jammed with crowds. The
streets swirled with sounds and activity. Music pounded out of large sound
systems or came from small bands or individuals. Sellers had their merchandise
laid out on tables, pushed on carts, or carried on their backs. The bustle was
overwhelming. After walking down the main street for awhile, we went into a
large store. The girls bought little dolls and we bought Alex a cowboy vest. It
was almost 4 o'clock so we decided to head back over the border. Many others had
the same idea and the line stretched over the bridge, around a corner, and far down a
side street. At first it was slow and we thought it may take an hour or more to
cross, then suddenly we were walking briskly. We
barely paused to answer "yes, we are American citizens", then
flashed our drivers licenses and were quickly across. In spite of the
crowds, the Mexico trip was a success in another way since Becca is now
motivated to learn more Spanish so next time she can "read the signs".
On our way home, at the recommendation of Sue Sills at the NABA park, we stopped at the Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge. We walked on
a 2
mile trail and encountered three chachalaca birds in the trees as well as
spotted some other birds that we haven't seen before but were not able to
identify. We also saw a very pretty Mexican Bluewing butterfly. We
discovered while reading a field guide to mammals several days later that the
Santa Ana NWR is also the "best odds" place in the country to see an
ocelot in the wild.
March 22 - Monday
Bill took Alex on 10 mile bike ride in the morning, stopping at the NABA park on
the way. They saw a question mark butterfly. This area is very popular with
birders and butterfly enthusiasts due to its unique ecosystem in the US. There
is a section in our bird book dedicated to the birds located mostly in this
area. In the afternoon, Bill took the RV to Camping World to have the oil
changed. It takes 25 quarts of oil! Sandra and the kids ride bikes to the NABA
park and see some beautiful butterflies including what they think is an orange
sulfur and a very long tailed butterfly. Unfortunately the butterflies don't
pose long enough or close enough for any pictures.
March 23 - Tuesday
We manage to get an early start and travel up 83 past Uvalde to Garner State
Park. The park is named after James "Cactus Jack" Garner who was
vice-president under FDR. It was built by the CCC and is located along the
sparkling clear Rio Frio. There are lots of deer in the park - both white
tailed and axis - an exotic that got loose from a game ranch.
March 24 - Wednesday
After some school work, we head out in the afternoon to tour the park. The
weather is poor so we don't go on any hikes. We stop at the park's visitors
center which has an impressive collection of Texas themed books for kids. We
then traveled into the town of Uvalde and lunch at a Rexall Pharmacy lunch
counter that serves Mexican food. The decor looks like it was stuck in the 60s
with a section for "Gents Scents" in one corner and reminded Sandra a
lot of her hometown pharmacy. As we head out,
Sandra strikes up a conversation with the pharmacist/proprietor, Alan Carmicheal.
He has several recommendations for our trip out west. We told him we were
planning on going north to Junction and then west on I-10 toward New Mexico. He
recommended stopping at Sonorra Caverns. He has also made 20 trips to Big Bend
park and although we've not planned to go there, he gives us pointers in case we
change our minds. He also hands us his 'copyrighted' (as a joke) copy of
tips for tubing the Frio Rio. We also follow his tip and travel a block from the
pharmacy to the headquarters of the First Bank of Texas, Uvalde whose offices
are an ornate concoction of red leather furniture, Remington western sculpture,
and marble old fashioned grandeur that somehow looks impressive rather gaudy and
more enjoyable than the sterile beige boxes too many banks are today. It makes you wish all banks were designed to make
it feel like a worthwhile destination instead of such a mundane chore. We stop at the Humane
Society's thrift store and load up on a bag of books for the kids.
Late that afternoon Bill took
Becca and Alex on a hike to White Rock Cave. They had lovely views (but no
camera). Above the cave, they heard some strange noises and went to investigate.
There were goats on the hillside!
That night we pondered the map
of Texas and the places Mr. Carmichael talked about. Bill remarked "Well, we
can't do it all..." to which Sandra responded "I've been thinking. What if..."
March 25 - Thursday
Deciding that there is a way
to do it all we extend our stay at Garner State Park and take a day trip to
Sonora to visit the Caverns. The day is overcast and cool, a perfect time to
hang out in a cave. We have a picnic lunch once we reach the caverns and then
buy tickets for the extended cave tour. The kids enjoy looking at the peacocks
roaming the grounds while we wait for the tour to begin. Our tour guide, Justin, is a huge cave enthusiast and is very knowledgeable about the caverns
and their formation. He helps Laura at different points as she is doing the
whole 2 mile tour on her crutches. The cave is very humid (98%) and warm (71
degrees) which feels warmer since bodies are unable to cool themselves through
evaporating perspiration at the level of humidity and no breeze! The cavern
is jammed packed with rare helictite (we need to look up the spelling on that
one!) and other unusual formations. It is the most beautiful caves we've been in
and the amount of amazing formations is almost overwhelming. We take a beautiful drive back through back
country roads and encounter some amusing things including loose cattle one the
road. That evening we have our first campfire in a while and invite our
campground neighbor, Adam, age 6, over for s'mores.
March 26 - Friday
Bill took Alex and Becca on an early morning hike up to Crystal Cave while Laura (who can sleep in like
a teenager) snoozes. Bill then rents tubes so that the girls can take
turns with their parents tubing down the river. Tubing down a section of the Rio
Frio winds up taking much longer than anticipated since the strong wind blows
the tubes upstream so only one run is done. On the way out, we asked the rangers about the goats
on the hill. It turns out that they are a well established herd of feral goats, not a native species.
We drive over to Seminole Canyon State Park. It is a gem of a
campground set high on an the top of ridge overlooking the canyon. The desert is bursting with flowers after a recent
rain and the sunset paints the sky. Shortly after arriving we are greeted by
the campground hosts from the Mission RV park. They have left
Mission for the season and are on their way to CA. This is the first time
we have seen the same people in 2 different campgrounds. Unfortunately the
beautiful setting also makes for some strong winds so we leave the slides in to
avoid tearing the slide awning covers. The gusts occasionally woke us up.
March 27 - Saturday
At Seminole Canyon we go on an
rock art hike in the morning. The canyon is named after the Seminole
Indian scouts who helped the army in that area, obviously not natives to the
area. There are 4000 year old pictographs on
the walls in a canyon shelter. The guide of the tour is a volunteer who
has an amazing amount of knowledge about the studies about the Indians who lived
there and the possible meanings of the pictographs. Right after our walk, we
drove to Big Bend National
Park. The only campsites available in the park are dry camping (no water,
electricity or sewer) at Rio Grande Village Campground. We feel set up for it
since our water tank is 2/3 full and we have a generator plus house
batteries. No generators are allowed after 8 pm. Luckily, the
desert cools down a lot at night since it is in the 90's in the daytime.
We head over to an area of the park where a hot spring is supposed to be, right on the
banks of the Rio Grande. Unfortunately, Hot Springs is flooded with
cold, muddy Rio Grande water. The river is very high from 2.5 inches of rain
that occurred about a week ago. Along the trail to the spring, there are Indian pictographs,
petroglyphs, and middens. There are also cliff wrens nests on the walls although
the birds have not returned to nest yet. Near dusk we see a javelina and a
rabbit along the road side.
March 28 - Sunday
We stopped at the Rio Grande Village visitors center for
recommendations. The park host had told us that Ranger Rob Dean who staffed
it was 'the best.' The park is larger than Rhode Island and covers terrain that
ranges from the Rio Grade river, to the Chihuahua desert to Chisos mountains. We
buy a national parks 'passport' book for the kids to stamp as they visit various
parks. Based on some of Ranger Dean's suggestions, we take a drive up through
the mountains and into the Chisos Basin. We stop at the visitor's center
and the girls pick up books for the junior ranger program. do the short paved
Window View walk and see two deer as well as fantastic views. We had lunch at
the Chisos Basin lodge, surrounded by more views. We then headed back toward our
campground area. We stopped at Dugout wells, an old ranch site that still has a
working windmill. Then we drove to Boquillos Canyon, pausing at the
overlook at the Mexican village of Boquillos de Carmen. We hiked on the
trail into the canyon. We spotted goats on the cliffs
across the river in Mexico. The wind gusts blew sand from the giant sand slide
into our faces but that didn't stop Sandra and the girls from climbing to the
top and doing the 'slide' down. That evening we went to the Ranger led slide
presentation on Mountain lions. We now know what to do should we encounter one
of the parks estimated 15 - 25 mountain lions. We would not run but put the kids
on our shoulders to look larger, wave packs, shout or sing, and if needed, throw
rocks. Our odds of encountering a rattlesnake are much higher.
March 29 - Monday
In the morning we join with Ranger Dean for a walk to learn more about the
animals that live in the park. He interprets the tracks left in the sand and mud
from the night before from various animals such as a kangaroo rat, gray fox,
nutria, beaver, snakes, and even insects such as the ant lion. He also gives us
a history of the original Indian inhabitants and the Langfords who settled in
the area around 1913. Sandra and Becca hike the 3.5 mile trail from the Hot
Springs to the campground. Since it takes them longer than planned (it covers
high terrain with lovely views and a snake encounter) Bill packs up the RV,
vacates the campsite, and completes a dump station stop by himself (quite a
feat). We moved the RV across the park to a commercial park just outside in the
town of Study Butte. We then go back into the park to do the Ros Maxwell scenic
drive and a hike into Santa Elena canyon. We stop at the Castolon ranger station
since the girls have completed all activities for their age groups (plus more) and
become Junior Rangers! They receive a certificate, a patch, and a pin. We hope
to do more of these programs at the national parks we visit. Each park has
information and activities to work on that are unique to the park.
March 30 - Tuesday
We work on making website updates before heading out to Ft. Davis, a couple
hours drive to the north. We camp at Ft. Davis/Indian Lodge State Park.
This park is a noted bird watching site and home of the rare Montezuma Quail. We
go to the interpretive center which has a lovely bird viewing display that
includes microphones which pick up the birds' songs and pipe it into the
building. We see a house finch, white winged doves, an acorn woodpecker, scrub
jay, and yellow finches. Laura has now added bird watching to her butterfly
hobby.
We make a brief visit to Fort
Davis, home of different cavalry units including 'buffalo soldiers', who were
regiments of African-American troops who helped protect citizens and travelers
in this section of Texas from Comanche and Apache raids.
In the evening we went to an
educational Twilight Program and then night Star Party at McDonald Observatory.
The girls learned about the five planets currently visible to the naked eye in
the night sky - Mercury, Venus, Mars, Saturn, and Jupiter - and their orbits. As
part of an illustration about orbits, Becca played the role of Mercury and
Sandra was the earth. Hopefully Becca will never forget that Mercury orbits the
sun 4 times for every 1 orbit the earth makes! In addition, we looked through
telescopes at the Moon, Venus, a star cluster, the Orion nebula, Saturn, and
Jupiter.
March 31 - Wednesday
Bill took the girls on a morning bird watching trip (We decided Alex would be
too noisy and disturb the bird viewing so Sandra stays with him to do stuff
around the RV and go to the playground and adobe lodge built by the CCC). Becca
came back early but Laura and Bill continued on. Their bird watching expedition
took them all round the Ft. Davis area an they saw red tailed and black hawks.
In addition they saw elk and prong horned antelope. We then moved the RV to
Balmorhea State
Park. At Balmorhea we had a west Texas 'snow storm' - the cotton wood trees
were in bloom and the fluff flew through the air and covered the ground like
snow. Balmorhea Park contains the San Solomon springs - a massive spring that
was made into a pool area at the park. The spring is a constant 76 degrees. The
large pool/spring is often used by SCUBA classes for certification dives. We
enjoyed swimming in it. The pool also contains schools of fish and also large snapping turtle
which Bill didn't tell the girls or Sandra about until the next day! The park
also includes a small cinega - a Spanish term for a desert wetland - that houses
a variety of fish (including two rare species), turtles, and birds. We treat the
girls to cable TV that evening after they write an essay about their visit to
Big Bend.
April
April 1 - Thursday (April
Fools Day)
At last a new state and a new time zone to boot! We drove from Balmorhea up
through Pecos and into Carlsbad, New Mexico. We are now on Mountain Time. We
relaxed in the morning and got off to a late start and made several stops along
the way - filling up diesel and propane at Flying J, stocking the
pantry at a Wal-mart Super Center, and finally picking up our mail at the post
office. We spent the night at a less than stellar RV park right at the entrance
to the park in White City but at least we caught up on the laundry.
Sandra failed to play any of her usual April Fools day practical jokes on Bill
this year. She must be slipping.
April 2 - Friday
We set of for any early morning trip to Carlsbad Caverns since we wanted to move
the RV from this location. Doing 3 one night stops in a row is a bit tiring
though! On our way on the 7 mile drive to the caverns entrance we almost had an
accident. Two deer leapt up over the banking onto the road right in front of our
car. Bill adroitly swerved and missed the second deer by bare inches. Whew! It
makes us truly appreciate all those who are praying for our safe
travels.
Once we reached the visitor's
center Bill put Alex in the backpack and took Becca on the 45 minute walk
down the natural cave entrance to the main attraction of the caverns - the big
room. Laura spent time working on her junior ranger book before she and Sandra
took the elevator down to the entrance to the great room. The large cavern area
is over 750 feet below the surface and is as large as 14 football fields. We all
met up where the natural entrance path converges with the trail around the big
room. We enjoyed the large formations and various features (like the
'bottomless pit' which drops down 140 feet). Afterwards we headed back to
the RV for lunch and the girls worked more on their activity books toward the
junior ranger badges. We returned to the caverns where the girls did some ranger
activities to complete their books and receive their certificates. One of
Laura's activities was to write a poem in a cinquain format that describes her
experiences at Carlsbad. She wrote:
Caves
small, big
growing, dripping, living
are growing every day
Nature
After the caverns, we drove
onto the Brantley Lake State Park and found a delightful place to set up camp
(as long as the large group of ants under the RV stays outside!). We've seen a
few scaled quails and a jackrabbit. The kids love the playground at New Mexico's
newest state park campground. That night we experienced a thunderstorm with
dramatic lightning over the plains and then heavy rains. We brought the slides
in so we wouldn't have to worry about the slide covers tearing or have their
flapping keep us awake.
April 3 - Saturday
On the news the next morning, we learned the Carlsbad had streets flooded and
experienced hail. Since we're perched high on a hill, we had no concerns about
flash floods at our site itself. We spent the rainy morning relaxing and then
headed to Roswell to check out the UFO Museum and Research Center. The free
center was founded by two men who were relatively close to the 'event' in 1947.
It presented articles and reports from that time. It has another section that
covered UFO sightings and hoaxes. Becca doesn't believe the crash was caused by
aliens. Laura hasn't stated her view yet. We spent the remainder of the
afternoon at the Roswell public library. It had a wonderful and large children's
section that even included a fish tank, parakeets, and toys. We had dinner at
the Nothin' Fancy Cafe (apparently George W. picked up an order of Ribs and
sides for Airforce One back in January which may be as close as we get to the
man himself).
On the way home, we
encountered increasingly hard rains. As we turned on the side road that led the
6 miles to our RV, we had to slow down as the driving buckets of rain turned to
hail that covered the road. We become increasingly concerned about the water
running in streams on the sides of the roadway that occasional covered the
roadway. At one point, a broad stream of water covered the road. It was not too
deep but was flowing quickly and made us a bit nervous that the car might stall
in the middle of it. Laura found the weather rather exciting but Becca was
frightened and prayed that the hail would stop and we'd arrive safely back to
the RV and thankfully both occurred.
April 4 - Sunday
It rained throughout the night. Given the fact that some streets in the town of
Carlsbad were being evacuated due to the continued rise of the Pecos river, we
did not head into town to attend church. Bill and Becca took a walk to survey
the flooded areas around the campground. Laura and Sandra played Monopoly while
Alex watched some videos. We then decided to head over to Amologordo and
try to avoid additional soggy days. We drive over the mountains, through
Cloudcraft and actually encounter snow on the ground. It is above freezing so we
pause for a brief snowball making session before heading down the road that had
been warning large trucks "6% grade for 14 miles, check brakes". The
exhaust breaks work great keeping our speed low as we quickly leave the snow
behind and move back into desert terrain. We set up camp in town at a former KOA
park.
April 5 - Monday
We set off to do a tour of the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway. It takes us through
Ruidoso Downs which has massive and graceful horse sculptures across from the
visitor's center. We then headed to the town of Lincoln, the focus of the
Lincoln County War that propelled William H. Bonney, aka Billy the Kid, into
infamy. From there we drove to Capitain for lunch and a visit to the Smoky Bear
Historic Museum and gravesite. We continued on to the Three Rivers
Petroglyph area that contains over 20,000 primitive carvings on the rocks. We
headed back toward our RV but then kept going on to White Sands National
Monument to take in the Dunes Drive at sunset. The kids absolutely loved romping
on the powdery white sands. When Alex got into the car he said "That was so
nice!" and then "Mommy, can I go on a dune again?"
April 6 - Tuesday
In the early afternoon we went back to White Sands National
Monument. The girls
worked on and completed the Junior Dunes Ranger program. They also had more fun
playing on the dunes including sliding down the steep sides in a plastic bucket!
While walking the Interdune trail, we were entertained by the stealth bombers
that flew by a few times. That evening we set up camp outside of Las Cruces.
April 7 - Wednesday
We went to the White Sands Missile Range Park and Museum. We had to register our
vehicle and have the hood and trunk examined before we could get in since it is
on a military base (a little more scrutiny than we had at Pensacola). We saw
many examples of rockets that have been tested at White Sands including an
example of the bomb casing for Fat Boy which was tested without a casing at the
Trinity Site. (We could have gone to the actual ground zero site this past
Saturday for their bi-annual public tour but didn't do it out of concern for the
kids due to the lingering radiation.) We then drove to La Mesa, chili
growing capital of the world for a tasty lunch at Chope's - a long established
hole in the wall. We then made a stop at Stahmann's Pecan Farm. We just happened
upon their once a week tour and saw the shelling plant as well as the candy
making facility. Our guide also gave us some history and facts about the
company. It is the largest privately owned pecan farm in the world. The
Stahmann's established it back in 1932 and have patented equipment for cracking
and shelling the pecans. They use a cold process to better preserve the flavor
of the pecan. They've been making candy, pies, and cookies since 1982. The
tour concluded with sampling some freshly made candies. Yum!
April 8 - Thursday
In the morning we bought new tires for the tow dolly and then went to a carwash
that had a large enough bay to wash the RV. We then drive to Rockhound
State Park near Deming, NM. We set up in a spacious, pull-through site with a
view of the playground. We decided that this would be a good location to stay
over Easter. The two New Mexico state campgrounds we've stayed at so far
have had lovely facilities - new playground equipment covered by large sun
tents, covered picnic tables set in concrete with nearby grills, and large,
level, sites. At this park, you can find and take up to 15 pounds of rocks
such as varieties of jasper, silica minerals, quartz crystals, and agates. We
hope to find a geode or a 'thunder egg'. We all went to the visitor's center,
and then Bill hiked to the top of the mountain while the girls went to the
playground and Alex and Sandra tried to nap.
April 9 - Friday
Sandra tells Becca "go find me a geode". Based on our
conversation with the local rock shop where we bought a lapidary hammer and a
book the state park has been "pretty well picked over" and we weren't
apt to find any geodes. We ventured a ways from the trail and Becca found
what looked like a geode. Then she slipped on some loose rock on the
hillside and fell into a prickly pear cactus. She looked like she had tangled
with a porcupine but was very brave while Dad removed half a dozen larger spines
(over an inch long).
The smaller ones had to wait until we returned to the RV and got tweezers. Ouch!
April 10 - Saturday (Laura
turns 9)
For her ninth birthday Laura got to choose what to have for lunch and
dinner. She chose two different fast food places, McDonalds for lunch and
Sonic for dinner. Becca hid her presents throughout the RV so Laura had to find
them before she could open them. We also took Becca's rock to the rock shop and had them slice it in
half to see what was inside. Becca's rock turned out to be a very pretty
thunder egg (basically a geode that is solid all the way through as opposed to
hollow). Bill purchased the Rockhound's Guide to New Mexico as well as a
lapidary hammer. The girls colored Easter eggs.
April 11 -Sunday (Easter)
The Easter Bunny somehow managed to track our whereabouts and made a visit to
the RV. We went to Church in Deming. After church we drove back to
the RV on roads that were icy from snow, sleet, and hail. We waited out the
bad weather and then moved to City of Rocks State Park after it cleared. Becca
lost a tooth that had been loose for weeks.
April 12 - Monday
We crossed the continental divide for the first time on our trek when we took a
day trip to to Gila Cliffs Dwelling National
Monument. Bill brought Laura up to
the cliffs in the back pack, while Sandra occasionally carried Alex and Becca
trotted right up like a regular mountain goat. In the afternoon, we stopped to
do some rock hunting in Gila river. The drive through the mountains was
beautiful. We encountered snow, mule deer, and wild turkeys. They have
re-introduced the Mexican Grey Wolf to the Gila National Forest but the ranger
said that he has never seen or heard them and we didn't have any luck spotting
them either. It is rather late by the time we've made the loop heading back to
our RV so we stop in Silver City for a tasty Mexican dinner at Jalisco's
Cafe.
April 13 - Tuesday
We took our time making our way over to Arizona and Lake Lyman state park. The scenery
on the drive ranges from deserts to forest from mountains to mesas. We included
a stop in just outside of the town of Luna to rock hunt agates on roadside where road construction cut through the hill.
April 14 - Wednesday
We went to Petrified Forest National Park and Painted Desert. It has loads
of petrified wood despite years of removal by early pioneers before it became a
park and gorgeous desert landscapes of dramatically covered geological
layers. We began our journey at the Rainbow Forest Museum where we walked
the Giant Log trail. We then stopped at the Jasper Forest overlook. Along the
drive, we saw logs poking through the bluff. Bill and Becca did a 3/4 mile hike
at Blue Mesa. We also stopped at Puerco Pueblo, the ruins of a pueblo that may
have housed up to 1,200 people around 1250 A.D.. It also had a number of
petroglyphs on the rocks along the canyon wall. We enjoyed stopping at the
various lookout points over the Painted Desert and concluded our trip with a
stop at the Painted Desert Visitor's Center. The girls added another Jr. Ranger badge to their
collection. Sandra picked up a Gem Trails of Arizona book so that the
family's new rock hounding hobby can continue.
April 15 - Thursday
We stayed in Holbrook at a KOA park for another day just to chill out. Bill took Alex
for a bike ride while the girls did schoolwork and Sandra tidied up the
RV. After lunch we did a little rock hunting for petrified wood, stopped
at the local visitors center and then went
to Dairy Queen for ice cream. Holbrook has the old route 66 running
through the center of town. It also has some wild west history. A
shootout with the sheriff gave a local watering hole the name Bucket of Blood
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